Nepal » Peak Climbing in Nepal » Kusum Kangguru Peak Climbing

Kusum Kangguru Peak Climbing

Mt. Kusum Kanguru, 6,369 meters, dominating the southern end of Charpati Himal separates the valley of the Dudh Koshi from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka. Regarded as technically very challenging on all possible routes, Kusum Kanguru is an impressive rock and ice peak which forms the border between the Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north. Its name originating in Sherpa language means the Three Snow-White Gods. This climb is the suggested for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience. This peak is one of the most difficult trekking peaks to climb and was first summit was attempted by Japanese team in 1979.

South-East Ridge
The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base cam at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.

North Ridge
The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grass and scree and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.